Two twin, clean labels, with no information other than the name, the vintage and the origin. It feels like a mission statement for anyone willing to explore the renewed vision of this legendary winery. Nothing can distract the attention of any person who is about to open a new chapter in the imposing old Paternina cellars. The legacy of its fascinating past lies there, a history that continues in these two wines of impeccable conceptual sobriety.
A white Viura and a red Tempranillo, seasoned with some Malvasía and Garnacha, respectively. Rioja in its purest form. Three not too distant vintages have been chosen, but with significant climatic contrasts. Additionally, the variations in the vineyards they come from and the ad hoc vinifications adapted to the demands of each vintage, have helped us to understand the new style of this house. A contemporary style that keeps a watchful eye on traditional Rioja.
A sort reinterpretation of the canonical wines from Rioja. In broad terms, the white seeks to let the nobility of Viura speak for itself, and its ageing helps to express all its inner elegance. Meanwhile, the red knows that freshness is a must if it wants to be on everyone's lips. An attribute that seems to safeguard the present and perpetuate its identity forever. If they are accurately defined, these two lines are a guarantee of success.
Conde de los Andes Blanco 2013
Viura. 13% abv. D.O.Ca. Rioja
It is imperative to note that this was one of the most complicated vintages in living memory. Unexpected rain, cold temperatures and their associated consequences made it necessary to be particularly meticulous both in the vineyards and in the winery. In this case, the colour is surprising, reminiscent of gold leaf. There is maturity but also finesse. Notes of candied fruit, cigar box, sweet spices or quince stand out. Silky on the palate, it retains its character by virtue of the structure that is still perceptible. Medium intensity on the finish (citrus, nuts and mineral hints).
Conde de los Andes Blanco 2015
Viura. 13% abv. D.O.Ca. Rioja
The grapes for this wine come from Ollauri, Haro and Briñas. Thirty-year-old Viura plants mixed with some Malvasía. A very good year in sanitary terms in the vineyards because it was hot and dry. Worthy of note is the wine's complexity, which is perceived as soon as it is served. Wilted flowers, honey, apricot jam and toasted notes that the passing of time has expertly shaped to deliver genuine pleasure. It is in top form right now. It would be interesting to see its evolution in the future.
Conde de los Andes Blanco 2016
Viura. 13,5% vol. D.O.Ca. Rioja
A selection of vineyards between Briñas and Labastida. A warm year, but as the end of cycle was calm, ripening was good. The three months spent with its lees ensure that the wine is expressive. At first, the ageing process is more evident. The smoked and toasted notes are accompanied by balsamic aromas (eucalyptus), lemon peel, damp earth, aniseed and some oily notes. The wine's body provides consistency on the palate and a sense of balanced freshness. The creamy, spicy and rich nuances make it very pleasant. Out of the three wines, this one has the most promising future.
Conde de los Andes Tinto 2013
Tempranillo. 14% abv. D.O.Ca. Rioja
It seems that the bad weather that year did not have a serious impact on the development of the first red wine. The vineyards are located in the villages of Briñas, Haro and Ollauri. There is a pleasant interplay of creamy and ripe fruit nuances that are reminiscent of plum jam. Notes of bonbon, cocoa, pepper and balsamic aromas. The palate is appealing because it is fluid, but at the same time its structure makes the flavours linger, enhancing the always welcome fruit.
Conde de los Andes Tinto 2015
Tempranillo. 14,5% abv. D.O.Ca. Rioja
There is a change of style from the previous wine. Distinctive notes of fresh ripe fruit, wild herbs and spices. It is deep and the ageing process is restrained. On the palate, its good acidity makes it extraordinarily juicy, with hints of liquorice and blue flowers and the tannins are gentle and silky. Long and very persistent. The wine is harmonious, lively and rich in nuances -all of these elements are crucial for the wine to be enjoyed right now but also necessary for it to develop over time into an elegant and complex wine. It is up to you to choose the right moment to open the bottle.
Conde de los Andes Tinto 2016
Tempranillo. 13,5% abv. D.O.Ca. Rioja
It has the explosive personality and brio of a teenager, but it looks promising for a number of reasons. The fruit is powerful yet delicious, but it's also enhanced by delicate floral notes that add a touch of distinction in the case of Tempranillo. A judicious choice of oak makes its presence discreet and it's there just for what is needed: for the wine to evolve and mature. On the palate, the fruity character continues to thrive in a wine with balanced alcohol and enough substance for it to age gracefully, and most importantly, unhurriedly.
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